Inspiration
A brief technique to eliminate rough textures (experimental) :
Step 1, mix 60% putty 40% color aprox. 2 layers.
Step 2 : 1 layer, mostly the ceramic varnish watered down a bit + little color
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Sencilla técnica experimental para destexturizar :
Paso 1, 2 capas, mezcla al 60 de masilla 40 color aprox.
Paso 2, 1 capa de barniz cerámico algo aguado + 1pizca de color.
WIP
tomo nota del consejo. como molaria tener una copia de ese Navi´i
ResponderEliminarOjo, este sistema se come el detalle que da gusto.
ResponderEliminarAdemas es una guarrerida española que me he sacado de la manga, si alguien tiene alguna otra solucion que haya probado con resultados positivos le animo a que la comparta.
La otra cara de la moneda es ignorar por completo el consejo e ingeniarselas uno mismo (recomendado) ya que tal vez asi alguien de con el sistema mas adecuado (repito, el mio tiene pegas como que la pintura se estria revelando capas inferiores).
De obtener peores resultados, siempre queda recurrir a mi truco del almendruco.
¡El Na'avi es precioso!
ResponderEliminarA priori, podría hacer copias bastante buenas, porque la pose no parece complicada de adaptar a un molde en dos partes. Asùi que si te decides a dejarte tentar por el proceso de clonado, no tienes más que mandarme el Na'avi y lo multiplico ;)
El jinete del dinosaurio me encanta :)
Muchas gracias por el truco, voy a probarlo esta noche con alguna d emis minis shapeways...
Interesting technique with the two-step putty/varnish application. Does it build the surface up noticeably? I have been experimenting with polymer clay a little (you have inspired me, sir!) and constantly struggle with leaving texture. Without fair after baking I find areas I do not like, and I figured I'd have to cover them with epoxy putty.
ResponderEliminarGreat stuff!
Hey, thanks for your coment komrade hakomike!
ResponderEliminarAFAIK some unknown company called Rackham (nudge-nudge) made their masters out of polymer clay (FIMO) instead of epoxidic putty. I've seen in person old Mithril (yup it existed before the movies :P) minis made out of it too, so the medium proves handy. It just don't take well vulcanizing wich is vital for production but that's matter of another debate.
Despite it has its weakness great results can be achieved in almost no time if you get used to working with polimers clays (wich happens in a more natural way than the pain that is figuring out how to work w/ greenstuff).
To blend the clay, erase fingerprints, smoothen surface, etc you can just use turpentine or the given brand's clay softener (sculpey softener liquid i.e.). Those products "melt" polymer clays so it's better to use them on final stages and gently to avoid warping the sculpt.
To work over hardened parts without baking the whole sculpt you can dip the part you want to harden into hot water or use hairdryer.
And those are few advices on how to work with super sculpey/fimo whatever...
Concerning to the RT marine I had to do so cause it was made out of some short of poliamide wich is, extremely rough.
Does it eat detail ? yes but the mini itself was 3D printed so It hadn't much detail to start with.
All in all there aren't much difference between the weird smoth-primed one and the other one so I still might recommend giving it a try. If you find it too thick, use only few layers of varnish (maybe thinned).
Just keep in mind some plastic putties / varnish might shrink so let it fully cure to avoir later layers of color to crackle.
Jesus shoul've hired me to write the bible; I'd had wrote a 5th thick book lol.
@ horacio
ResponderEliminarLa figura esta ya casi pintada (era una sorpresa). De hecho esta pintada pero a las botas y el arma les quedan 1 hora de luces y sombras :D
Esto lo discuti una vez con kana; hay que planificar las miniaturas, no deben ser solo espectaculares sino tambien tener la particularidad de poder pintarse bien y ser susceptibles a la creacion de moldes.
Ambas se conseguen evitando "recovecos" que realmente no aportan nada a la miniatura a parte de problemas para hacer llegar el pincel o silicona a dichas zonas.
Me he panteado tu propuesta, es posible que para la proxima figura pongamos en marcha tu idea :) El milagro de los panes y las minis!
I think you discovered another crackle medium (just like some use PVA glue). If you want a non cracking varnish, use Vallejo's.
ResponderEliminarMy method is first varnish or cyano, to seal, then many layers of paint, some thick for the flat zones, using a wet brush to smooth the edges. Other people talk about fiber glass pens, to sand the surface, I have to get one first.
Creo que has descubierto otro craquelador (algunos usan pegamento PVA para eso). Para que no casque, usa barniz Vallejo.
Mi metodo es primero barniz o cyano para sellar, luego muchas capas de pintura, algunas sin disolver para las zonas planas, y suavizar los bordes con un pincel humedo. Otros hablan de lápices de fibra de vidrio, para lijar. Tengo que conseguir uno y probar.
Crackle medium & PVA: http://www.artforum.com.au/post-10239.html
- Sturm
Interesting... I'm pretty sure I've used blobs of paint to fill in "surprise" airholes on minis (found after I started painting)... does that count? :)
ResponderEliminarAs for polymer clay, I've had a bit of success with it in the past, but I'm not that good at sculpting anything larger than 25mm scale pouches, so I haven't really tested the boundaries of my Sculpey...
me encanta!XD
ResponderEliminarMon dieu! Agramar "el escriba" por estos lares !! gracias por el cumplido y la visita, me encantan tus articulos. Gran articulista (articulado ?)
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