Paint revitalizer product mini review (green stuff world)



First of all, this isn't by any means a sponsored nor professional review. I just happen to have 20 year old paint bottles and wanted to give this product a try/share my thoughts about it.

Got mine from here.

Have  you been in this hobby enough to recognise that paint bottle? If not, that's enchanted blue from citadel paints.

Surprisingly it was not rock hard like the most of the ones I own from that age. God bless, as this only works on semi dry paint.

Veredict: it worked.

Paint had a thicker than ice cream consistency and now look at the stick I used to stir the paint, a drop is flowing down!

Then I kept adding Paint revitalizer to see how much it would take before breaking the paint and this is the difference between adding just water (paint will dry faster as water evaporates) or thinner: this product keeps the consistency of the paint as it was before drying out, so it's kinda safe adding a fair amount.

I had less than 1/3 of goopy and rubbery unusable paint and now I have half a paint-ready bottle.

Recommended if you want to keep those stupidly bottled (seriously, still using lids?) paints.

Oh, I added few drops of distilled water to bulk it out. I may update again in a couple of days, see ya!

Update: this product looks safe for brush lickers, as bottle says it's NON toxic water based medium. Mad props to Demi Morgana for the shout-out about pauper painters feeding on brushes. :P

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Esto no es una reseña profesional ni esponsorizada; tenia aún botes de pintura añejos y decidí probar/compartir resultados.

Lo pillé aquí.

Si reconocéis este bote exagonal es que lleváis un tiempo en el hobby. Es azul encantado de citadel. Me sorprendí al encontrar que no estaba como una piedra, lo normal en las pinturas de esa época.

Veredicto: Funciona.

La pintura tenía la consistencia de una bola de helado, algo gomosa y ahora mirad la foto; del palo de remover cuelga una gotilla!

La pintura admite bastante revitalizador sin romperse, y está es la principal diferencia entre añadir solo agua (se seca) o diluyente, que afectaría a la consistencia: el revitalizador deja la pintura en su viscosidad y opacidad original.

De menos de1/3 de bote con moco inservible que tenía, ahora tengo medio bote gracias a un par de chorros de revitalizador y unas gotas de  agua destilada (para hacer bulto).

Recomendado si tienes pintura estúpidamente embotellada. Puede que actualice en un par de días, nos vemos!

Actualizado: parece seguro para la gente que se alimenta a base de chupar pinceles, el bote dice 'medium no tóxico base agua'.

She's radioactive , She's very selective











She's what I need, She's so goopy indeed!

Yet another De javú here. The mini is meant to be a companion for my other toxic pile of slime. The 1st one I made sculpting half a body then slamming into a goop of hot glue. This one, which I'm not proud of, was sculpted from scratch.

It was a quick sculpt and paintjob as my wife started sculpting with premo so, I had the opportunity to sculpt more often. Problem is, not every time I had a clear Idea or was in the proper mood.

It's been around 4 months since I did this, most notable stuff I may share is I used fluorescent paint (Vallejo was selling that decades before others did).

I wasn't after the glow effect and to be honest, old timers know that using a tiny bit of fluo on the highlights makes them pop. I just overdid it. Perfect example is how great orange turned out just by glazing some fluo.

But wait, there's more:

Lately, modelling companies started selling UV resin for water effects but truth to be told, it's a classic in (my wife's hobby) polymer clay charm works. I used the resin here in the same fashion, as a thick gloss glass-like varnish coat.

Hope you find something neat about this. I didn't.

Cheers!




El compañero del moco tóxico. Lo modelé sin ganas ni inspiración hará unos 4 meses cuando mi mujer se puso a modelar colgantes y tal.

Datos vagamente útiles? Veladuras de fluorescente, algo que scale o greenstuff te venden hoy, pero Vallejo modelo color lleva vendiendo décadas.

Es un truquillo de yayo del modelismo; añadir un pelo de fluo a las luces finales y bum! Esto altera la luz reflejada aunque no usemos ultravioletas. Un ejemplo es el naranja enriquecido. En este caso, le di por un tubo, un exceso que al no tenerle especial cariño a la mini... Pche.

La otra revolución del modelismo ahora es la resina UV (la venden como para hacer efectos de agua) pero esto también resulta que es más viejo que el cagar. Yo lo descubrí por mi mujer, que en su "hobby" barnizar los colgantes con resina transparente, y eso hice yo. Una buena capa gruesa de resina, que da consistencia, tiene un toque flexible y acabado cristalino.

Un saludo mozalbetes!

Blue Moon Legends - Green Dragon.







Pro tip keep notes about your paint recipes. If you paint armies it's a must indeed.

Guess work here but I'll dare it was basecoated fluorescent, either yellow or green, then glazed with airbrush and brush with green inks and paints.

It's so striking to play a card game with 3 dragon tokens like those painted resting in the middle of the table :)

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Cuqui-consejo: para estar siempre guapis, hay que apuntar las recetas de pintura. Si pintas ejércitos ni te cuento.

Me imagino que la capa base fue con fluorescente amarillo o verde y luego unas veladuras a aerógrafo y pincel de verdes.

Mola echarse una partidilla de cartas con tres token dragón pintados en medio de la mesa :)

Blue Moon Legends - Blue Dragon







Over produced token indeed, so it's pretty awesome for a token yet not that crisp detail-wise if you compare to an actual miniature.

Painted so long ago I can't recall the recipe but I'd bet that it was primmed w/ army painter ultramarine  rattle can, then airbrushed with P3 arcane blue, most likely spiced w/ army painter blue wash.

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Token sobreproducido, una vez más, flipante para un token pero que flojea en ciertos puntos en comparación con una miniatura.

No recuerdo cómo fue la cosa, pero tiene pinta de estar imprimas con army painter ultramarine en spray, Luz a aerógrafo con P3 Arcane blue y el típico lavado también de Army Painter.

Test subject 02




The other demon I've written about in the previous post. This time it's  the lower half of the demon lord what was severed.




Hard knock life huh, Mr Demon Master?



Upper half is the inner demon, or the "larvae" from wich this superdemon was originally formed. By the looks, feels like a demonic mech with the tiny dude inside...



The belly face came from one of the early John Blanche's paintings called Cthulo Inferno, appearing in "heroes for wargames" old book.



It was made out of wire, masking tape and tinfoil paper to bulk and my old frined super Sculpey Firm.



Both are painted so expect pic and Scale 75 paints review soon.



Enjoy!



PS: backed Cybertronic Spree's kickstarter. If you like rock, 80s and/or robots (transformers) you should check that lovely toronto based rock band.






El otro demonio del que hablé. Es la parte de abajo que ha sido cortada.




Que vida mas perra, eh don diablo? te parten la cara y te cortan en 2...



La mitad de arriba es el demonio interior, la larva pétrea a partir de la cual el superdemoño se formó. Tiene un rollo mecha demónico.



Lo del careto en la panza es inspiración de Cthuloo inferno, una ilustración viejuna de John Blanche aparecida en el libro "heroes for Wargames"



Alambre, papel de plata y cinta de carrocero como base y mi vieja amiga super Sculpey Firm.



PD. Recientemente he sido mecenas de Cybertronic Spree. Un grupo de rock de Toronto al que que merece la pena echar un ojo si te van los robots, los 80 o el rock.